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31st July 2010
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Spend a day in AngoulêmeBut will you fit everything in? As the capital of the Charente it is natural you would have Angoulême on your list of ‘must see’ places on your trip here. The old city itself is compact and easy to get around on foot, so let’s take a look at the different places to visit, where to wander and most importantly, where the restaurants are for that well-deserved long, lazy lunch.History The city was originally granted its Charter in 1204 by King John, the youngest son of Henry II, who spent much of his reign fighting losing campaigns to keep the Continental possessions he had inherited. By granting Angoulême the status of city, King John hoped that this would prove politically advantageous as well as financially profitable as the city and much of the surrounding area would be subject to English taxes, and in addition he was married to Isabelle Taillefer, daughter of Aymer Taillefer, Count of Angoulême. As the capital of the Angoumois province, Angoulême was a much-coveted city, being heavily fought over during the fourteenth-century Anglo-French squabbles and again in the sixteenth century during the Wars of Religion, when it was a Protestant stronghold. After the revocation of the ‘Edict of Nantes’, a good proportion of its citizens – among them many of its skilled papermakers – emigrated to Holland, never to return. Angoulême was dominated for centuries by paper mills that employed thousands of workers and bolstered the city's prosperity. The industry collapsed in the 1980s, and only a couple of small, specialized mills still function however diversifying into other industries including tourism, has restored a measure of the city’s former prosperity. Sights to see Angoulême is built on a rocky promentary overlooking the Charente and its smaller tributary, the Anguienne, with sweeping views across miles of countryside and is not only the capital of the Charente region but also at the centre of the Angoumois district. There are two distinct parts to the town, with the ville-haute (upper town) differing greatly from the lower town.
Sights to see in the centre include the 19th century Hôtel de Ville which was built on the site of the original fort of the counts of Angoulême and just two towers, the 13th century Lusignan and the 15th century Valois, remain as part of the building. You are able to enter the courtyard and see the gothic architecture as well as how the old towers were incorporated, and the gardens around two sides of the building are a delight to walk in. There are also museums of painting and archaeology inside. From here you can take a walk along the tree lined Place de New York (beside the Rue Georges Clemenceau) making sure you look to the left to see the city’s 19th century theatre with its side windows of striking modern stained glass and a façade topped with musical angels. You may not know that one of the early names for New York was Nouvelle- Angoulême, given to the fledgling city by an Italian working for François I, Duke of Angoulême, so it is appropriate that the city has returned the (almost) complement. At the end of the avenue stop at the magnificent statue of President Sadi Carnot (by Verlet, 1897) and admire the panoramic view across the east of the city towards the golf course on the opposite hill.
If you do stop at the Cathedral of Saint-Pierre make sure you view the west front façade which has a richly carved collection of 75 Romanesque sculptures and is acknowledged as one of the most impressive in western France. The interior does not have aisles and looks stark in contrast with the exterior, having sustained damage by the Calvinists during the religious wars of the 16th century and several subsequent programmes of repair. During the 19th century, the architect responsible for designing the Sacré-Cœur in Paris, Paul Abadie, made significant alterations to the cathedral as well as designing the Hôtel de Ville. Near the cathedral on Rue Friedland, you will find the Musée Lhomme which is housed in a former bishop’s palace and contains the collection of Dr Lhomme a local collector who amazingly amassed the nearly 3,000 items without travelling himself as his health was too delicate. One room contains examples of the finest Charentes pottery by artists such as Sazerac and Renoleau, there is a collection of 12th century sculpted capitals representing humans and mythical beasts, and also the fourth largest collection of African art in France, most of which was brought back to Dr Lhomme by his friends.
Shops & Restaurants Walking through the streets of the ville-haute you will be able to browse the shops along the pedestrian Rue Marengo and Rue Saint-Martial and the boutiques which can be found in and around Place du Petit Beaulieu near the Post Office. Les Halles d’Angoulême are just down Rue du General de Gaulle from the Hôtel de Ville where a fresh food market is held most mornings and is worth visiting to pick up those tasty treats for dinner. If you need a break and fancy a coffee, just opposite Les Halles you will be spoilt for choice and you can spend your time ‘people watching’ alongside the French café set. Or if you are looking to enjoy a relaxing lunch or dinner, you will find a wide choice of restaurants on the streets leading from the Place des Halles including Rue Massillon, Rue de Geneve and at Place Francis Louvel. For further information: What’s on in Angoulême in 2006 Mairie & Tourist Office Vieil Angoulême FEEDBACK Want to comment on this article? We value all helpful feedback. If you simply want to let us know about something related to this article please email feedback@frenchentree-charente.com. If you have something you would like to contribute please follow the instructions on our Contributors Page and don’t forget to mention which article you are referring to at the top of your text. Thank you. Holidays and Leisure Home Page Looking for a property in France? Use FrenchEntrée's Property Finders to help you find your property and to help you through the buying process 
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