Life in St-Carreuc: A Village in the Côtes-d’Armor

Following love to an idyllic Breton village

New Zealander Ian Fitzwater followed his wife Sophie’s ancestral roots to St-Carreuc and found a new rhythm of life and true French hospitality.

How did you discover your village? We live in the Côtes-d’Armor department, in the Brittany region, in a little village called St-Carreuc. We moved here from New Zealand in 2007, where I met Sophie, who was working in a bed-and-breakfast in Fiordland. We chose this village as it is where four generations of Sophie’s family have lived, so we decided to purchase their property to convert into a B&B.

What aspects of village life do you enjoy? The peace and quiet, the friendliness of the locals – we are close to a city, but live in the beautiful Breton countryside.

What is there to see and do in the area? We are very located for our guests – who come from all over Europe and further – to explore all of Brittany, from Mont-St-Michel (on the Breton/Norman border) to Perros-Guirec, and the pink granite coast, Brest, the Crozon peninsula, Carnac and Quiberon, all of which are within one hour and 15 minutes from our B&B. We are also close to Paimpol, St-Malo, Cap Fréhel, Erquy… a combination of great coastline and also picturesque inland villages.

How do you get on with the locals? I enjoy interacting with them and also with our clients. It is a very enriching experience.

How has it been working in France? Our B&B, Les Petits Gallais, has five rooms (four ensuite,) with large comfortable beds. We have built up a reputation for great service and great breakfasts. We share a lovely large garden and outside area where people can relax and read a book or just listen to the birdsong and enjoy the tranquillity. We both have immense knowledge of our region, which helps visitors make the most of their stay, to explore the area and enjoy the wonderful restaurants and a culture that is unique to this part of the world.

One thing about working here is that you do need to be able to speak French. In a lot of the Breton villages no one speaks English, and I feel it is disrespectful to expect French people to communicate in my language when I’ve chosen to live in their country. Too often I hear English people insisting that locals “all speak English really – they just make it difficult”, which I find unfair.

How was your French when you arrived – and now? I only had schoolboy French, but I immersed myself in the French culture, studied at a lycée for six months, and to this day continue to try to improve my comprehension and understanding of the wonderful French language. Although I now speak French fluently, I am stuck with a Kiwi accent, which sometimes astonishes the locals – they say they find it ‘exotic’. I still make mistakes, but continue to improve year by year – it’s not a language you can learn in three months.

What about the local architecture and history? We are surrounded by ancient history that dates back to 4,500BC, with Carnac being the oldest prehistoric site in the world. Breton history is steeped in all sorts of conflict – with the French (against the Bretons), Romans, Vikings, Spanish, Dutch and the English – leaving a landscape dotted with castles, châteaux, fortifications and burial sites.

What has surprised you the most about living in France? Discovering how mixed and varied the French population is living in harmony. The extraordinary generosity and genuine friendships that developed and, of course, all that comes with learning a new culture, and the amazing history that exists in this part of the world.

Any local speciality that you have developed a taste for? Brittany is better known for its cider than its wine, but it also has excellent food – particularly seafood, thanks to its long coastline and fishing tradition – as well as outstanding dairy products, butter and cheese.

What is your favourite French saying? It has to be ‘Oh là là!’ ■

Find out more about Ian and Sophie’s lovely home and B&B in Brittany: lespetitsgallais.com