Pork Loin with Wild Ceps

Automne Porc aux C

Autumn is the perfect time for this delicious recipe, cèpes abound in the countryside and there are always plenty of enterprising locals in the markets who’ve taken the back break out of the endeavour for you! Autumn is also the time for inexpensive pork. You can find huge trays of it prepared by the excellent butchers in the supermarkets and in the markets you’ll find the smaller farmers have dropped their prices accordingly. In France loin is the definitive roasting joint and there are always plenty of long, luscious rolled and tied rotis available.

A friend of mine uses them to make an excellent pork confit at this time of year, in the traditional way, in glass preserving jars. I haven’t tried it yet, but I’m going to have a crack as soon as I find time. Once I’ve perfected the recipe I’ll pass it on. Meanwhile try this one. It’s quick, easy, utterly delectable and just the thing for a special supper.

Serves 2

Ingredients

2 thick loin chops
* I buy a kilo roti in the Wednesday market; slice two thick chops for supper and save the rest for a Sunday roast.
2 medium sized cèpes
1 fat clove garlic, sliced
100ml crème fraiche
1 glass white wine
30g butter
Small handful of fresh parsley, chopped
Salt and freshly ground pepper

Method

Prepare the cèpes by wiping them well – don’t wash them unless they’re absolutely filthy – and separating the caps from the stalks. Slice the caps and then chop the stalks into rounds. Discard any parts that look maggoty or otherwise disagreeable, they won’t enhance your enjoyment!

Melt the butter in a well-seasoned frying pan and fry the chops for about five minutes on one side, turn them over and add the cèpes. Carefully turn them in the buttery juices so that each piece gets a coating, then add the garlic and fry for a further three minutes turning the cèpes and garlic from time to time to ensure the former get a golden coating and the latter don’t burn. Now add a good splash of white wine, about a glassful. Allow the wine to reduce for a couple of minutes then add the crème fraiche. When the sauce is bubbling add the salt and freshly ground pepper and stir in the parsley. Transfer to a hot serving dish.

Serve with steamed spinach and mashed potatoes to soak up the wonderful sauce.

©Amanda Lawrence